After a half hour at the checkpoint,
where Kurdish military guards examined our identification papers and
wrote down key information, we continued on the windy mountain roads.
Our driver, four CPTers, and our interpreter passed flocks of sheep
and goats and small towns and villages nestled on dry, rocky
mountainsides through the foothills of the higher Qandil slopes. We
were in northwestern Suleimaniya Govenorate not far from the Iranian