Journey through History by Rosemarie Milazzo and Cliff Kindy 2 February, 2009 Last November the international press depicted North Kivu, DRC, as a war zone. Media reported homes burning, people chased by gunfire, the rapes of women, fields ready for harvest being abandoned, and youth taken as child soldiers. Gunfire and screams filled the TV screen. In December, CPT arrived in the Congo, North Kivu. On 21 January, Cliff Kindy and Rosemarie Milazzo, two team members, left in the morning darkness for the bus. It was full of baggage and travelers eager to get to Butembo, the first stop on the way to Bunia. At what had been a rebel check point three days earlier, soldiers laughingly said, “All is well. The war is over.” The scene was one of movement - CNDP rebel soldiers traveling south towards incorporation in the government force, government soldiers traveling North. Further north CPT saw Rwandan troops; a passenger explained they had crossed the border under an agreement with DRC President Kabila. Women sang and danced as they saw the government troops move by. CPT saw farmers back on the land and homeowners re-thatching and re-mudding abandoned houses. It was an atmosphere of hope. CPT passed through Rutshuru and Kiwanja, where media had earlier covered killings and displacements. In Kiwanja, immigration officers stopped CPT. They refused to accept passport copies, carried so passports would not be stolen, and held CPT over one hour. The bus driver and passengers kept asking the officials to let CPT go. CPT encouraged them to just go without CPT. However, they declared, "La, tunachunga abiria wetu!" (No, we won't, we take care of our passengers!) Immigration went back to Rutshuru and got the commander who cleared CPT and offered his number in case of further trouble. The bus continued through Virungu National Park where passengers saw monkeys and deer that had returned, another sign of hope. Do animals hear the sounds of peace? The bus arrived in Butembo at 11:30 P.M. Everything was dark, but the driver found lodging for passengers before he left. In the morning, the bus for Bunia filled and CPT took off, soon leaving North Kivu and entering Oriental Province. At one point, the bus ran out of gas, but a motorbike passed and the driver siphoned gas from his bike and the bus went on. In Luna immigration officials again stopped CPT. They requested money, passengers massed outside the office in support and refused to leave CPT behind, CPT offered to accept arrest, “Not a jailable offense,” “No need for a receipt,” 'No need to report to the immigration office in Bunia.” CPTers arrived in Bunia and were taken by Prosper from the Anglican Bishop's office to Amical Hotel. That hotel had been large and beautiful, but the war ravaged it, leaving only the side of the building where CPT stayed. In Bunia, the team met with the Anglican Bishop and a local congregation, MONUC Director and Security Officer, Louis Bidigio, an activist with artisanal miners, and Vicky Pena-ahindu, Ministry of Health. Bunia has been relatively free of war for two years and active shops and markets were visible signs of new life. There were different opinions between MONUC and others about whether this situation merited any optimism. Those working hardest to change things were often the most pessimistic. The return trip to Goma went more rapidly in spite of four flats because of the wretched road surface. As Cliff offered to help, some of the passengers said that he was a rich man, probably with a large garage back home. Rosemarie explained that he was a farmer, to which they replied, “He probably has a large herd of cattle!” Near the park again, CPT saw families returning with piles of household goods and noted even more animals in the game park, including the first elephants! In Kiwanja again, CPT saw streams of people who had been at their farms for the day, returning from work. Villagers seemed to be settling in again with Rwandan troops guarding the area. . CPT arrived back in Goma early evening. It was good to see Butembo and Bunia. Folks there had lived through two years since significant fighting. Goma has had about 2 months since significant fighting. Bunia is stepping ahead in time....now there is hope that Goma will also have that opportunity.