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Iraq Delegation Report

Getting in the Way
Delegation

Christian Peacemaker Teams Iraq Delegation
May 21-June 4, 2005


Currents of Canadian and American conscience swept us to explore peacemaking in Iraq. Like tributaries to a swelling stream of conscience-driven North Americans, a group of five came from all over to Amman, Jordan, on May 22 (another came on May 24). After a day’s orientation, we flew to Baghdad. Ten days later, we flew out of Baghdad (minus one who stayed a few extra days). Then on home. But the ‘in-between’ wasn't all that simple. We'd like to take a few minutes to talk of the home, heart, heat, health, history, and hither of our Iraqi hinterland venture. (Forgive the alliteration. There will be no further effort at literary form or subtlety!)

The members of the delegation were Angela Davis (Natchez, Mississippi), Julie Hrdlicka (Calgary, Alberta), Ann Marie Johnson (Phoenix, Arizona), Carol Rose (Chicago, Illinois), Roger Sanders (Sherman, Texas) and Trish Schuh (New York, New York.)

HOME

‘Home' wasn't just about who we were. It was also about the values and experiences we brought to this enterprise from our homes and hometowns. It was about the fears and anxiety for our physical safety; about the joy and excitement of trying something that most of our communities were not experienced in; about resistance and even hostility to what seemed useless and without chance of 'success'; about puzzlement over why Iraq and why not some place safer or more accessible. Fears loomed large over the prospects of roadside explosions, intentional acts of targeted violence, and the spectacle of public kidnappings and ransom demands. Yet, there was also reflected the resolute willingness to support an idea larger than any individual, the pursuit of peacemaking in a world that sure can use it. Home for us was who we were and who our communities were, in fear and love and support for peace-making.

HEART


Prior to Baghdad the six of us had not met as a group. Yet, we were forged by time and necessity to wander together a path into peacemaking, with little common mooring, except for a heart for peace. Each of us had a different idea of what it might take. Only Julie and Trish had had experience in Iraq. Some had more, some less ‘religion-based’ experiences in peace-making. Thank goodness there was that commonness of spirit.

You might wonder what difference that makes, this common mooring. Well, as it turned out, almost every time we spoke with Iraqis or with troops or with governmental officials, we 'debriefed' the subject later, finding that the collective view was richer than any one perspective. There seemed to be a collective contribution not often anticipated by us individually. Each would catch a nuance, a meaning, a turn of phrase, an interpretation which allowed the rest to come to a larger understanding. That might not seem like much, but the women on the team were burdened with horrifically hot hijab headdresses (sorry about the alliteration) and long, black draping abayas worn to blend in for security purposes. So, on occasion, when the power was out or we were just burning up in the 110+ deg. F (43 C) heat, we would nod off in the meetings. Luckily, one of us would be awake to take notes, or keep the conversation going. This was one of the toughest parts of the process, and the collective heart was trusted to bring us a collective, accurate view. So this common heart made more easily reliable the collection of a common perspective. Despite that commonness, we disagreed, disputed, and debated with one another about what we heard, saw, and then reached conclusions reported here.

HEAT

But first, the weather. They can save a lot of money here by simply announcing the weather as 85 deg. F. (30 C) in the early morning hours to 110-115 deg (43-46 C). F in the afternoon. Every day. Forever. Rumors of comfortable weather in other seasons must be exaggerated. Why? Because in our collective 66 days of experience (11 days X 6 people), there were only fairy tale imaginations of what 'cool' might feel like. Our closest experience was in those rare, wondrous times of rolling electrical power: our section got it generally a few hours a day, but we did see days with two hours of power. Downstairs in the permanent CPT apartment, when there was no power/AC, the internal apartment temperature was 91 deg. F (33 C), and they estimated it was 95 or 96 deg. F (35 C) in ours on the fourth floor. The heat was a big factor in our experience, as it impacted, in addition to our meetings (above), our sleep and humor. (Please note that in the 'h' alliteration series, 'HUMOR' was not listed.) And it impacted the amount of time we spent on the roof, watching helicopters drop flares in our neighborhood, or going to and from the 'green zone' just across the Tigris River, and shaking our limbs to dislodge the buzz-and-stalk mosquitos. And it impacted how long we could wear the same, unwashed clothes without their smell driving the occasional passing-by cart-pulling horses back to their stalls. And it impacted just how quickly those clothes would dry on the roof top -- seemed like by the time we'd finished with the last clothes pin. And it impacted some of the health issues, below.

HEALTH

By the end of the first week, we'd stayed healthy. No significant 'Baghdad belly' cases. Our stock-pile of Imodium was intact; optimism was running high. But after a trip to Kerbala, and two fairly long stints in heated cabs going to and fro, either the 'Kerbala krud' or the 'B. Belly' (or some other combination of not good things) felled three of the delegation and the permanent team. Diarrhea and/or vomiting, along with profuse sweating, was made more miserable by the on, now off, then on again power. Thanks to antibiotics, Gatorade, and strong constitutions, recovery came.

That, of course, was inevitably just a part of the trip, as were war zone precautions. So, to keep our health -- no roadside bombs, and to reduce the possibility of being kidnapped, we followed rigorous precautions: periodic check-ins with permanent team members, the carrying of cell phones, going out in small groups, being dropped off at the end of the block by taxis, leaving meetings in staggered groups, taking different routes to and from appointments, and similar cautionary tactics. The group has been remarkably fortunate (and careful), in the spirit of Jesus' admonition in Matt. 10:16 -- to be as innocent as doves, but as wise as serpents. Not to compare our CPT permanent team to snakes, but they guided us carefully to health and safety.

And then about our emotional health: Carol, our team leader, was good about drawing us into discussion to bleed out pain or frustration we felt as new comers to an old situation: to the pain of those who were suffering, however you might characterize the cause. Carol guided us into the recesses of our experience, to the places where we had absorbed the pain of participants, so that we had some conscious place to put our feelings about what had happened to innocents. For example, after a few days in Iraq, we went to the location of a group called 'Women's Will'. This was a non-governmental organization (NGO) without par in passion, from our experience. A small woman, set in jaw, and clear-eyed, took us through her view of the history of women's experience in the Iraq of sanctions and war. She led a charge through recent history, a charge of gritty passion against violence upon Iraqi women and their families. Behind and around her were examples of art by the women (and their children) served by this humble NGO.

We were struck by the woman’s spirit, by the newspapers they published, by the poetry of ordinary women they served. The stairwell leading up to the second floor where our hostess spoke with such evident energy was covered by the drawings of children showing tanks shooting children, destroying lives. But there was one drawing that seemed to be from every child in every land in every time: a stick drawing of a small child, with flowers and homes and sunshine. Every child's hope, but not so available in a world with 100,000 non-troop deaths in the last couple of years from wars and the rigors of post-war detention, interrogation, and military processing. The wonder is that there isn't more of a spirit of violence, not less, in light of what the ordinary people of this nation that produced Abraham: first from Saddam's violent, vicious, and crushing rule; and then from the war-sanctions-war sandwich Saddam served his people; and then the post war occupation.

Our hostess wound down eventually, but her vigor was notable for a kind of pure spirit, and clear-hearted impact upon us all. This wasn't about money. This wasn't about retribution. This wasn't about wanting help. It was about a plea for us to see her as significant, her cries for justice, for peace, for some new way to live in the world without war. What was most striking was her direct request for mothers of the world to see that they were losing their sons together. She proclaimed understanding for American mothers who had lost their sons to war. She asked that American mothers honor Iraqi mothers in the same way.

We also had the chance to hold an infant, about six months old, whose mother had typhoid. Women. Kids. What difference should the fact that they were Iraqi make? Our leader took us through the debriefings so that our healthy view of a difficult situation could remain balanced by the collective views of the group with a common heart, different background.

And finally, the health of the Iraqis themselves. We could have expected a personal response to us of deep anger or bitterness, even a seething. But that was not evident. And we weren't thinking that it was just because we North Americans came to support the structures of peace. Without fail in every circumstance, from professionals to families, from organizational representatives to sole proprietors of businesses, from church to mosque, we were offered the most effusive, more gracious receptions imaginable. Even in poverty or near poverty, the Iraqi tradition of desert hospitality to travelers was repeated with the best the household had to offer: water, cold soft drinks, tea, snacks, and more. What we might have expected to be a pained, grim, and determined reception was always gracious, even joyful, in the midst of evident pain over what they perceived as unjust or unjustifiable treatment by one or more aggressions. We were encouraged by the determination and emotional health of the Iraqis we met, deeply wounded but ready to continue.

HISTORY

The itinerary took us on this journey, a brief history of which follows, with highlights. Fasten your seatbelts, please. Saturday, May 21, left for Amman. Sunday, May 22 arrived (most of us) in Amman and went to the Al Monzer Hotel to sleep and later meet the delegation. Monday, May 23 met the rest of the team (minus Trish); got a trip orientation; met with newly elected president of the Muslim Peacemaker Team (MPT) who was headed to the States to raise money for peacemaking. Met with a representative of Mennonite Central Committee. Tuesday, May 24 flew into Baghdad (still minus Trish), landing in a 45 degree. spiraling descent, dropping 3,000 ft. a minute as a safety precaution; met the permanent team, Greg Rollins (Vancouver, British Columbia), Tom Fox (Washington, D.C.), Joe Carr (Kansas City, Missouri), and Will VanWagenen (Salt Lake City,Utah) for lunch; then walked to meet with the director of St. Raphael Hospital, a premier private hospital which turns away none; then hosted one of CPT's interpreters, the son of one of the women at Women's Will (above) briefing us on his experience as a detainee for 11 months before release. Wednesday, May 25 met with another of CPT's interpreters who briefed us on differences between the Shia and the Sunni; then met with the directors of one of the only Iraqi mental hospitals, hearing of their needs (75 beds to serve a population of 25 million), and the organized looting after the invasion; greeted Trish as she joined the delegation; then met with a CPT translator. Thursday, May 26 met with a member of the Iraqi Interim Parliament, a Communist Party member, as he calmly outlined the limited choices facing Iraq regarding US troop withdrawal and possible resulting civil war; then heard from an Iraqi business owner distraught over the lack of security she and her customers face, and struggling to stay alive physically and economically; then part of the delegation was hosted by CPT's landlord and his family, reviewing their understanding of the occupation and the impact on business and family life under Saddam and the invasion/occupation while the rest were welcomed by a neighboring family. Friday, May 27 traveled to meet with a Chaldean priest who explained his views of resistance, use of a machine gun, and loss of most of his parish to fear and migration to safer places; rested the afternoon; then briefed by Tom in preparation for the trip to Kerbala. Saturday, May 28 visited Women's Will (above); then meeting with an Iraqi Englishman heading an NGO-coordinating organization called Culture for All, with offices where the CPT team will meet new folks as a safety precaution (an earlier team had been robbed at their apartment by folks not so well known); prepared for the trip to Kerbala, the ancient and venerated site of Shia faith, and home of a 600+ year old pilgrimage shrine. Sunday, May 29 traveled to Kerbala in three separate vehicles; met the vice-president of the MPT and officers of the Human Rights Watch of Kerbala which had discovered and investigated the first mass graves at the hands of Saddam from the late '80's and early '90's; then joined our Kerbala MPT host at the holy shrine honoring the revered martyr, Caliph Hussain, with lecture on several topics from ancient Islam to current events; walked through the shrine’s inner portions including a mosque, observing prayer, sermons, funerals, and kids having fun, and a library of Islamic works. Monday, May 30 a trip to US Camp Lima just outside of Kerbala for a visit with the Chaplain and with Civil Affairs officers working on reconstruction; attended the following Memorial Day service led by the Chaplain; lunched in the mess hall, meeting with president and other officers of the Human Rights Watch of Kerbala, reviewing maps of the mass graves, and hearing of the explanation of international interest in their documentation; attended an inspiring joint CPT/ MPT meeting, including twelve men and three women from the MPT. Tuesday, May 31 trip back to Baghdad in three vehicles; rested; then hosted the gentleman in charge of Culture for All (above), and his friend who brought an evening of incredible eud (an Iraqi 'guitar') music and song. Wednesday, June 1 headed to the 'green zone' in two cars; took two forms of identification (one had to be our passports); went through seven separate check points with three different nationalities of troops (American and Georgian GI's, and Nepalese contract security guards) for a meeting that didn't happen because the official overseeing the Iraqi elections had moved and nobody in the building could figure out where; then met briefly with the Iraqi Assistance Council representative in charge of processing requests for finding the location of thousands of Iraqi detainees by a concerned relative; then lunched in the formerly posh Al Rasheed Hotel, escorted by a Civil Affairs major who went onto the government chow hall, while we bought expensive sandwiches and salads from the ONLY place we could get food; then heard from the UN human rights official for a review of every aspect of the politics and practicalities of human rights treatment in Iraq; then met with the colonel heading the Civil Affairs/reconstruction/civilian relations efforts of the US Army in Iraq and the major in the women and children dept; then headed back out of the heavily fortified area to our cars, and across town to the CPT apartment; then hosted one of the CPT translators who brought his brother and dinner; and finally were debriefed with and expressed appreciation to the permanent team for our experience with and being hosted by them, before leaving for Amman. Thursday, June 2 packed and left for the Baghdad International Airport at 10 AM for a flight scheduled at 3:00 PM.

HITHER

And where to from now? Well, useful to answering that might be the conclusions that we reached (here listing the ones we could agree upon). Among the bazaar of experiences and conclusions, here are seven important things we learned which might propel us to a particular direction:

1. Tens of thousands of Iraqis have been killed or suffered since the invasion and occupation of Iraq;

2. These, predominantly by accident of birth, were Iraqis, but some are American and other American allies;

3. Those who have suffered death and/or desolation were predominantly Muslim (96%+), but some were Christian (3%) or of other faiths.

4. Virtually all Iraqis we talked to expressed belief that the America would not have invaded had there been no oil (Iraq has huge oil reserves, second only to Saudi Arabia).

5. Virtually all Iraqis we talked to expressed gratitude to America for ridding Iraq of Saddam Hussein right after the invasion;

6. Virtually all Iraqis we talked to expressed anger and frustration at America for what has happened in their view since the invasion: the destruction of their governmental services, the loss of millions of jobs, the protection of the oil ministry to the exclusion of all other governmental agencies, the allowing of looting of those agencies, and the looting of huge arsenals of weapons that are now on the streets in the hands of terrorists and criminals, the opening of borders that allowed in foreigners who are part of the current security concerns, and the loss of security for the average Iraqi. They put it generally this way: with Saddam we were in prison, but were safe, with health care, food, and supplies under set prices. With the Americans, we have freedom and are not under a dictator, but no jobs, little health care, rising prices on food and supplies, almost no reliable electricity, and no security.

7. Virtually all Iraqi's we talked to would like for US troops to leave. now. Most that we talked with said that they know immediate with drawl is impractical in that they believe a civil war will result if the troops leave now. Few had a real passion about the US troops leaving right now. All expressed hope for peace, amongst their frustrations. All expressed deep gratitude for CPT’s presence and work, and admiration for the risks taken.

So, what does this leave us? Well, for starters, it leaves us with some erased preconceptions. We thought that we might find a big hue and cry over privatization of the Iraqi national industries and businesses. However, a member of the Iraqi parliament – a Communist Party Politburo member, no less – opinion that that was battle for another day. He was more concerned with the new Constitution and getting the more permanent parliament elected so that they could then deal with privatization. The truth of the matter is that in all they are facing, the Iraqis we spoke to were not much focused on the plight of the poor, the working man person and his/her income, the deep future of the Iraqi industry, etc. We thought that there might be a deeper sense of democratization across the board, but it really just seemed that everyone had so much on their plates just to survive, that it was almost too much to consider. Security, electricity, and security were the top three issues. And even though most thought that with America there, there would be a price to pay to retrieve the oil industry, and that there would be permanent US bases in Iraq, despite the government's protest of the same, we almost got the impression that many Iraqi's would chance that to get the country more stable. One woman, a business owner, was so discouraged about the lack of safety and security – her business having been robbed repeatedly and her customers having been chased off by traffic problems due to car bombs – that she said in frustration: "Look, I don't care. Make us a US province or a 51st state. Just make us safe." She, like so many, believed that the US had created a situation which requires the US presence for stability.

Yet, in all this, there was a bright light. Among the people of faith – Christians and Muslims alike – there was an deep and uniform interest in peace. In one particular group, notable for its compassion, competency, and initiative, the Muslim Peacemaker Team in Kerbala, there was a substantial move forward. MPT as we came to know it, vigorously is pursuing paths to peace. Having received the idea of and the training for their peacemaking team from CPT, this growing group of professionals and leading lights in Kerbala have already held elections, organized, and sent their president – an American Iraqi who has repatriated to Iraq since the war -- to the US to raise support and money for peacemaking in Iraq. They met with us on three occasions, twice as the MPT and once in and for the Human Rights Watch of Kerbala, the group that first discovered and brought to light mass graves created by Saddam in the late 80's and early 90's. This group of teachers, lawyers, homemakers, and workers , is on the move for spreading peacemaking teams throughout Iraq, including to Fallujah, and Najah, two notorious hotspots. They are also working across disparate Muslim lines: Sunni and Shia.

CONCLUSIONS


So, we conclude that we are glad we came, we learned much, and carry much back in information, understanding, and shared concern for peace. We are heartened to see the progress on the ground. We believe that the strands of the peace web we helped support while here through this trip and what we do with it were a justification for the risk that we ran in coming, and for the fears, prayers, and concerns about us by those who love and care about us. And we support and believe in and want a spirit of support and compassion and peace to engulf and lift up the kind of work CPT is doing in Iraq.

In 1986 Ron Sider gave a speech that spawned the peace-maker team effort. How can we, he asked, be an effective witness for peace unless we share the risk of those who are there for war. For a few days we shared some of the risk (along with the permanent CPT team), carefully and we hope, innocently for the cause of peace. That risk is past. The hope for peace is present. Living that peace is from present to future. Blessings upon efforts in that journey, and much gratitude to you for your lifting us up while gone.

– Report submitted by Roger Sanders.