From The Inside Looking Out

Report #63 - Welcome To Jerusalem

by Jerry Levin

Hebron, West Bank, Palestine
January 24, 2006

The Israeli military check point just across the Old Hebron road from Tantur, the University of Notre Dame operated ecumenical study center, is gone. Situated at the Israeli unilaterally imposed northern limit of Bethlehem, vehicular traffic can now zip past at a purposeful pace. Just a few weeks ago they were obliged to often wait in long lines while waiting one by one to be appraised and scrutinized by border police before being allowed to proceed in or out of Bethlehem.

Also gone is the covered but open to the elements passageway that ran a hundred yards or so up from Bethlehem to where IDs were checked. Rain soaked Palestinians were also obliged to wait in line for an often capriciously applied signal to obediently shuffle forward in order to undergo a similar scrutiny by other guards seated warm and dry in a heated make shift cabin.

And gone too is the small contingent of soldiers patrolling the area around the checkpoint who in blatant violation of an international agreement with the Vatican would suddenly invade the Tantur grounds in order to flush out and round up needy Palestinians who, hopefully hidden by the center's high stone wall, would try to furtively circumvent the check point. The need for stealth was because their West Bank IDs would not allow them to be in Jerusalem. Sometimes the soldiers, again thumbing their nose at diplomatic protocol, also would sneak into the grounds and hide out. Then guns at the ready they would triumphantly leap out from behind an interior wall or rocks to halt unwary Palestinians in their tracks. Once apprehended, the unfortunates would be herded out of Tantur to the checkpoint where they would be compelled to wait with others caught earlier - sometimes for hours - before being allowed to move on.

The check point by Tantur is not needed any more because the Jerusalem/Bethlehem border has been unilaterally moved three quarters of a mile south to a point well inside what was Bethlehem's northern municipal boundary. The Bethlehem land in between has been annexed into the anachronistic Jewish State. So now even a stroll across Tantur from one end to the other still leaves one where one started…in Jerusalem.

Once again as with the entire history of the occupation, where the West Bank is concerned, border shrinkage, i. e. galloping annexation, continues to be both a de facto and de jure U. S.-encouraged-made-in-Israel dynamic. Let's not be fooled. The real "disengagement" of catastrophic consequence all along has been the unilateral non-stop ethnic cleansing of Palestinians by Israelis from not just their land but their property…not the other way around. The so-called Israeli "disengagement" from Gaza and a relative handful of squatter homes in the West Bank was a pragmatic military redeployment in recognition of a new Zionist geopolitical reality: A geographic Greater Israel is in all likelihood not going to be as large as once giddily imagined by Israel's religious and secular zealots and their international fellow travelers. But the ruling Israeli establishment is not giving any thing away. The militant Zionist dream of a Greater Israel is simply being downsized a bit in order to continue Israel's domination and iron fisted control of the entire region. That's hardly disengagement.

That real "disengagement," the disengagement that really is, commenced even before Israel's war to establish sovereignty in 1948 began. In the 19 years between that war and the one in 1967 more than 400 Arab villages in Israel…not the West Bank…were "disengaged" from history, literally removed from the map Carthage style along with three quarters of a million of their residents. After 1967 the process of "disengaging" Palestinians from the rest of the land coveted by the Israeli political/military-industrial plutocracy picked up steam.

Long before the brutal subtractive unilateralism of the Sharon led Likud party (and before him, the Begin/Shamir/Netanyahu led Likud, there was the calamitous unilateralism of long gone Labor Party plutocrats: Meier, Dayan, Rabin, and the sole left wing wolf in dove's clothing still hanging in there, Shimon Peres. All of them participated in the establishment of the squatter communities still euphemistically described as settlements, as well as approving quadrupling Israeli Jerusalem's size by annexing Arab East Jerusalem and a significant portion of the West Bank into East Jerusalem. Then over the years many of the Palestinian residents were displaced by tens of thousands of Jews who were moved into their midst. The process began right after the 1967 Six day war: the preemptive campaign that turned into conquest and then into one of the last and currently longest running of the massive, ruthless, brutal old style colonial occupations in history. "This land is my land. This land is not your land…."

So the blatant expansion continues marked by a facetious sign on the Bethlehem side of the huge monstrous teutonically efficient newly privatized Israeli controlled border crossing and customs zone. The crossing and the customs sheds are protected by the massive twenty nine foot high "annexation" wall, equally massive steel gates, and the military standing guard at each access point into the zone. Despite the pristine squeaky-clean serpentine interior which provides ample protection from the elements, the sign which says, "Welcome to Jerusalem," screams mockingly and impudently at every Palestinian needing to pass through. It also sends the same message to the internationals also passing by, who over the years have witnessed Israel's relentless annexation of West Bank areas into an increasingly Judaized East Jerusalem. They understand very well the both ironic and cynical main stream Israeli nose thumbing that the sign represents. And it goes without saying that there is no way Palestinians can sneak around this new improved checkpoint like they were often able to do when it was back up the road a piece along side Tantur.

For those leaving the still expanding new Jerusalem side of the wall and passing through it to the still shrinking new Bethlehem side, the Israeli Ministry of Tourism has painted for all to see another sign, a huge one, in three languages: English, Arabic and Hebrew. It says "Peace Be With You." Late last month, when I passed from new Jerusalem into new Bethlehem for the first time since leaving the occupied territories in October, I immediately imagined a different and what I thought was a more truthful subtext that is contemptuous rather than cheery: "Abandon Hope All Ye Who Enter Here." And then I thought that another more honest statement reflecting the relentless Israeli imposed subtractive facts on the ground in the West Bank would be, "Piece Be With You" instead of the hypocritical "Peace Be With You." But when I passed through the wall to the other side and saw the "Welcome to Jerusalem" greeting for the first time, I thought that the two signs combined gave new meaning to the phrase, "Oh little town of Bethlehem" with the emphasis on "little." With respect to territorial integrity this latest turn of events, which continues to be replicated elsewhere in the West Bank, supports the awful truth that today is worse than yesterday for Palestine; and tomorrow will be worse than today.

Having said all of the above on this day of all days without confirming that "yes" I am aware that there is an historic election taking place in the West Bank and Gaza tomorrow, I am confirming it now. And I think it is accurate to also confirm that I believe that in all likelihood it is going to send a fateful message to the PLO about its credibility with many of its own people. But I sadly also believe that such a message over the short or medium term will have very little impact on the "Piece Process" or the continuing disengagement of Palestinians from their land and property. That's because every Palestinian, as well as those internationals passing through the new Bethlehem portal/checkpoint, who have experienced and witnessed the onerous and on going land grab, understand completely that the "Welcome to Jerusalem" sign is just another visual exemplification of main stream Israel's defiantly insolent answer to bedrock Palestinian desires. Among the most pertinent are 1) the desperate need for existentially meaningful effective legal due process; 2) an honest to goodness process of self-determination epitomized by a Palestinian Authority/Government-in-the-making of Palestinians, by Palestinians, for Palestinians of every political persuasion who will be elected with out interference or threats by either Israel, the U. S. or the European Union; and which 3) finally and actually will be able to negotiate into existence a viable Palestinian state secure in every sense of the word within more or less the 1967 Green Line borders.

I would like very much to be proved wrong about all this. But don't hold your breath waiting for 1 through 3 above to happen.